Episode 14: Gulf of Murtoli (Corsica) to Maddalena (Sardinia)

1925: Suspicions of espionage at La Maddalena

To avoid the swell, the fishermen advised them to sail along the east coast of Sardinia. Bonita was now heading towards La Maddalena.

His crew believed that by flying the French flag and staying off the forts, passage through the archipelago was possible. But, too busy admiring the sunset and the granite island of La Caprera, they failed to notice that a large semaphore was signaling them.

Suddenly, three cannon shots ring out on the left! Boom, the cannon shots start again.

"Ah, the semaphore over there is sending signals." Ella reads: "I have a fire on board." - Laughter! - We look better: it's the other way, MN = "Stop immediately!" Damn it!

A boat pulls away from the shore and heads towards us. They shout to us in Italian: "Order from the sea captain to turn and go to La Maddalena!" Sails lowered, Bonita is taken in tow.

At 8 p.m., Bonita anchors in front of the harbor master's office. Bonita is suspected of spying! The police search the cabin for a radio and seize the cameras.

After verifying their identities by telephone in Paris, the young women are free.

Carinne Bertola after Marthe Oulié, When I was a sailor, 1930

---

2025: The Bonita flag is hoisted

After our city break in Ajaccio, we all really wanted to treat ourselves to a moment of anchorage in a heavenly cove found all along the west coast of Corsica. We chose the Gulf of Murtoli and its silver beach. If it's not paradise, we're close.

A solemn moment, we sang the song that had become Bonita's anthem , "I saw a ship a-sailing," and hoisted the Bonita flag.

Then let's mark the occasion with a bottle of champagne in this magical place and light.

A new, unique sunset gives way to the waxing moon, then to the endless starry sky.

After a peaceful night, almost alone, we swim back to the beach to explore the cove as far as Silver Beach. This is a chance to let off steam and walk or run further than the 12m length of Avel Heol.

Midday, we reluctantly weigh anchor to sail through the famous Strait of Bonifacio with a fair wind. Conditions worsen the following day.

After beautiful sailing conditions, under full mainsail and Code D, we leave behind the light colors of the rocks of southern Corsica. Here we are in Italy, with the appropriate Italian playlist on our modern gramophone - our Bluetooth speaker :)

We take turns at the helm and Sharky takes his turn too, with the added bonus of deterring pirates from approaching.

The Lavezzi Islands and those of the Maddalena Archipelago are colored by the passages of clouds which give way to the varied tones of the setting sun.

Throughout this stage, in front of this coast that has remained wild, we feel close to the girls who admired the same landscapes, the same rocks and colors of light 100 years ago.

As you approach La Maddalena, the ferry traffic is less idyllic!

But instead of three cannon shots, the harbormaster sends us Angelo. If that's not a sign from heaven...

Once again we moor at the indicated place after a perfect maneuver by Dyna.

Today's weather report:

The warning for the Tyrrhenian Sea and northern Sardinia is confirmed - thunderstorms and strong winds for at least 24 hours. It is now a certainty: we will not be able to reach Palermo, our 2025 goal , by making the same stops as the girls. Since the goal is not to reach Sicily in a straight line at all costs, our first leg will therefore end in Olbia on Saturday, the date on which we must return Avel Heol and return to Switzerland. This decision is highly emotional, of course... but it is safer, more realistic, and it will allow us to finish the trip by documenting our last stops carefully and in a good mood.

Ella Maillart said: "I want to forget that the return is inevitable." This evidence is catching up with us, but let's enjoy the present moment.